Backless dress, experienced seamstresses opinions needed

[~boogiepop~]

Hey all! I asked this question around this time last year, but I have more of a grip on what I want to do this time. It's probably not something I should be doing 2 weeks before con but I really want to get it done! I'm going to be cosplaying B. Jenet from King of Fighters: http://images.wikia.com/snk/images/d/da/Jenet-xi.jpg which wouldn't be that hard if the back of the dress didn't look like this: http://www.creativeuncut.com/gallery-04/mow-bonne-jenet1.html

I've been in cahoots with this thing for about a year now. I don't really stray away from drafting patterns myself, and bought a pattern to base everything off of (http://www.candykaycouture.com/M5136.jpg) and for some stupid reason didn't really look at the inside and I think I'm going to completely go off it and do something else (mostly due to the fact that the underpart of the dress is actually a leotard, and well, you can see she wear a string bikini which is visible).

So my plan of action...


I'm going to use the shape of the pattern pieces and alter them a little. Splitting the dress up into two parts seems like it would save a lot of fabric and the belt would hide that seam anyways. I'm going to use clear elastic/plastic stuff to help secure tightness and form above and below the breast as the wig will also hide that I am using that. I will also be securing it to my back with a lot of body tape. I will be wearing one of those crazy sticky bras and I have bought a stretch knit to use (since I thought I was going to use that pattern and that's what they suggested) that's a bit thicker.

SO QUESTIONS, and please let me know if you have any other suggestions on how to make this work.

-Should the bodice be lined?
-Should there be some sort of reinforcement in the bodice  to help the front conform to my body more? (i.e. boning, and I can't think of any other kind of reinforcement there is)
-The edge on the back part, I'm worried about it pulling and stretching (because it is a stretch knit) so would I want to put some kind of reinforcement (like bias tape) around that edge so it keeps it's shape better?
-Would the side darts be ok or should I also use some princess seams/vertical darts to help make the bodice tighter?

Thank you for any help you can give.

[ichigo_m.]

That's a beautiful dress! I can't wait to see it! (=
I haven't had much experience with open backed dresses (only one).
You seem to have the right Idea, using clear elastic will help keep the form.
Although the dress is fitted to her, and I can see your worry with a stretch knit, I would suggest not using boning. It will give the dress a different look. That won't fit the style. When using a stretch knit though be careful that your hems don't fold up. (Aka lots of ironing and French or double hemming) Using a bias tape would also help keep the hems straight, but that might change the look of the dress. I suggest using a tight straight stitch while hemming. If you don't stretch the fabric while sewing then stitch will not stretch meaning the fabric won't either. Which would keep the form of that back cut.

Darts wise I think side darts would work fine, but I'd also suggest vertical darts to keep the dress close to your form in the stomach area and then it would be looser in the bust, like what is indicated in the images.
My other thought is that it might be best to keep the dress as one part, just due to the flow of the skirt. I don't know how you would attach it if they were separate parts, but to keep that smooth flow with the flat skirt I think it' be wise to keep it as one dress. Just a thought though. xD

I hope I was semi helpful. (=

[superjaz]

With the stretch knit fabric, does it split or run? (I have have worked with some that do)
on some scrap of the fabric I would expriment with some fray check to see if it would keep it from stretching out of shape/splitting

[bunny_jean]

I would use a dance-type stretch fabric to get the clingy effect (that way you might not have to put any darts in at all), and not use the elastic across the back like that. Since her hair is long, you could use a bikini top as the bodice lining, and replace the underbust ties (that goes around the back) with clear elastic.